Stolen Lifeguard Stands and a Stolen Way of Life.

But both are slowly being recovered – the stands by the Coast Guard, and the way of life by wise citizens and a responsible local government.

It’s the same deal as in UD‘s beloved Garrett Park (type in 20896): Profiteers are always going to want to get rich off of prized locations, and the way you do it is by building immense houses and taking down the trees and the neighborhood. Rehoboth, like Garrett Park, is struggling to defend itself.

Les UDs now begin the trek back to Garrett Park.

Snapshots from Rehoboth


Today was a little overcast, so instead of
swimming in the Atlantic, UD and her
sister visited a lavender farm
in Milton Delaware.

The farm has a swing on which
UD sat, gazing at cornfields
across the way.



UD thanks her sister
for taking the pix.

July Fifth Fireworks Instablogging

It’s 8:30, and boats of all sorts are gathering at the shore across from the Star of the Sea apartments. Fishing boats, yachts, cruisers jammed with sightseers. Long lines of folding chairs have been set up along the beach for the big event.

There’s a breeze, the sky is clear, night’s coming on. So far so good.


Blue velvet sky, blue velvet sea. The waves press in, the lit-up ships list. Their engines throb as they inch closer. A helicopter circles. On the beach, glow sticks dance.


Officially dark now, and things should start happening soon. Though it’s already quite a spectacle – the crowds, the bright shining boats, the throbbing engines and the throbbing sea.


Whew. Ol’ UD‘s emotionally exhausted. The display started quietly, of course, with pleasant little golden streamers here and there. But it quickly began flaring out and up with tutti-frutti bursts all over the sky. Louder and louder rocket reports vibrated the air. The final red white and blue explosions were frenzied and beautiful and we all clapped and hooted.

The moon’s a golden egg.

The moon emerges like a night sun out of cloud bands.

Au fond, I’ve always come to the beach more for the sky than the water – the sunrises, the moonrises. (Au fond each summit is a cul-de-sac, as one of James Merrill’s most adorable lines has it.)

Tomorrow night’s the big Rehoboth fireworks display on the beach just outside our apartment; tonight was a smaller show at neighboring Dewey Beach, along with, more spectacularly, a string of small red and yellow explosions all along the Jersey shore, easily visible from our balcony. It reminded me of one July Fourth evening in upstate New York, when suddenly pyrotechnics emerged between two distant Catskill peaks.

Why do these silent far-off displays move me more than big crackling in your face shows? They seem a natural event, the earth itself celebrating the country; and their miniature gaiety has a modesty far more attractive to me than the bombast of the bomb blasts.

Les UDs leave tomorrow for their summer stay in Rehoboth Beach…

a retreat from the pettiness and divisiveness of the real world.

Of course UD will continue blogging from the beach, as she has always done.

La Kid at a Misty Lake.


The lake is near the beach.

Very strange weather here at Rehoboth. Close to the beach, it’s moodily overcast. As you walk from the beach, things suddenly clear up.

Sand Dollar.

Walking along the beach yesterday, UD watched as a greenback of some sort floated out of the waves and stopped right at her feet.

Whoa, she said to her sister. Lookee here. Money from Mother Nature.

UD excitedly picked it up in hopes of bagging a C-Note or higher (UD‘s gratitude to MN for spitting free money out at her quickly transformed into an insistence that it be Something Big), but it was only a dollar bill.

Still, UD is reasonable enough to appreciate this striking bounty. No wonder people all over the world want to move to America.

Frozen sand, like peanut brittle…

lay in shelves along the beach this morning. On some outcrops colonies of gulls sat, fluffing their wings but basically staying put while UD steamed along. Yesterday’s high wind was gone, and the sun shone with amazing intensity for seven in the morning. Despite the cold, I felt its heat on my shoulders.

A calm ocean and a clear sky and a world all mine had me banging on to myself about Being, Nothingness, and My Buddha Nature. Plus other stuff. I forget.

Rehoboth Beach Halloween Dog Parade Instablogging…

… from UD on a spectacular sunny afternoon by the Atlantic. She’s sitting on the front deck of her hotel, awaiting, with a large crowd, the start of the parade. There are already plenty of costumed dogs to be seen parading the boardwalk in all the familiar getups: bumblebee, convict, butterfly, cheerleader, superhero, ballerina, pirate, princess, skeleton, witch, hotdog, hamburger.


Distant music.

It’s windy, clear.

“Here it comes!”

Saints Come Marching In –
marching band.


Huge numbers of apparently happy
costumed dogs marching down the
boardwalk. As always, UD
is amazed at the polite long-suffering
dogs and the proud owners.





(UD thanks her sister
for taking the pictures.)


UD got up insanely early this morning to walk the beach while the evening sky transformed to pastel. The scenery people sent three container ships to glide bejeweled along the horizon so that UD could enjoy maximum-picturesque.

Gradually, behind a low bank of black/gray clouds, the orange disk emerged. Foreground: Black shadowy gulls.

Rehoboth Beach on Halloween…

… is about happy costumed
dogs and happy costumed
owners smiling in the sand
under the late October sun.


It was warm enough today
to go in the ocean.


Constant, and even inconstant, UD readers must know by now that…

UD spends her Halloween weekends in Rehoboth Beach, Delaware, whose Sea Witch Festival appeals to her. She’s leaving ‘thesda now in order to get there in time for Bagpipes on the Beach. There’s also the Dog Parade, bonfires, etc., etc.

She will of course blog from there like a bat out of hell.

“Intertextuality” is the pretentious Lit Crit word for the dependency of texts upon other texts…

… for the way in which the meaning we’re deriving from reading any one particular text – a poem, a short story – has as much to do with the somehow related texts we’ve already read as it does with the text we’re right now taking in… We bring to the reading of any “new” work a lifetime of encounters with precursor works, and this readerly past is always in play in any readerly present. Literary experience, from this point of view, is personal pastiche, consciousness-patchwork, the piling up of language then onto language now, a remembrance of written things past.

And this is a marvelous thing, if you ask UD, because it’s not merely about the pleasure of feeling one’s reading become enriched over … well, over years of reading. (A similar sort of operation occurs with the act of re-reading.) It’s also – more intimately – about discovering one’s personal truths through intuiting one’s literary recurrences. By this I mean that if you live long enough and read long enough you notice yourself circling certain poems, novels, pieces of music (this doesn’t have to be just literary, obviously); and that if you think about your own recurrences you can sort of intuit important things about yourself.

UD‘s using weasel words (sort of intuit…) for the knowledge literature yields because she believes, along with James Merrill, that art is as much about a sort of saving oblivion, a tactical and beautiful evasion of life’s stark truths, as it is a vehicle of those truths. Iris Murdoch calls art “close dangerous play with unconscious forces.” Play, you see. We all know there’s something childish about the pretend business of stories and, well, plays… They aren’t reality; they’re fable and metaphor and wild and crazy imaginings… And yet of course as cultures and individuals we tend to derive our most serious understandings of reality from these unreal entertainments; and this is arguably because they give us these truths in the only form most of us can accept them. Make them too stark and we look away; aestheticize them and we’ll give them a look. We’ll maybe even (this is Aristotle, on catharsis) allow ourselves – vicariously – to undergo the ultimate emotions relative to human fate while we’re engrossed in a dramatic tragedy on stage…

It’s all push and pull, I mean to say. Art – our experience of art – enacts at once our embrace and our evasion of difficult truths. And indeed our personal intertextual history, our particular eccentric reading life, can tell us a great deal about what we’re personally up against, what we’re resisting by way of existential instruction. Our reading history can tell us about our peculiar internal cost/benefit economy, about the complicated ways in which each of us works to sustain energy and happiness throughout our lives.

So for instance whenever I’m at the beach I think about my peculiar defensive relationship to a particular poem – Berck-Plage, by Sylvia Plath. It’s been important to me over many years not to understand this poem, to find it an impervious verbal surface. Yet I keep circling it – or it keeps circling me… When I was writing, a few years ago, about The Diving Bell and the Butterfly, I suddenly realized that its author, Jean-Dominique Bauby, encased in locked-in syndrome at a hospital on the French Atlantic coast, is gazing from its balconies at Berck-Plage. And then – odd coincidence – my friend and colleague Tom Mallon not only reviewed this book for the New York Times, but began by noticing the same Plath/Bauby intertextuality:

“This is the tongue of the dead man,” Sylvia Plath wrote in “Berck-Plage,” her poem set in a French hospital complex by the Channel coast. “How far he is now, his actions / Around him like livingroom furniture, like a decor.” A year and a half ago, following a catastrophic stroke and weeks of deep coma in that same hospital, Jean-Dominique Bauby gradually “surfaced” into a new existence as a victim of “locked-in syndrome,” mentally alert but deprived of movement and speech.

So… the poem insinuates itself, erodes my resistance, especially of course when I’m at the beach. It pressed itself upon me, an obscure intertext, when I read Bauby (I read him here, years ago, at Rehoboth Beach); and now it’s back again on a beautiful day on the Atlantic shore, and I’m listening to the YouTube I linked you to earlier in this post, of Plath, with her flat angry voice, reciting it.

The core problem, I suppose, is that this particular poem (I adore almost all of Plath’s poems) is insufficiently evasive; it is out there in the way of reality itself, and, really, who wants that? In “Berck-Plage” there’s nothing tempering Plath’s disgust and horror at our painful lives and our dreadful deaths; she simply contrasts the happy-making aspect of vacation beaches, the fully sunlit life, the smooth-limbed physical joy of children at the supreme play of beach play (On my morning beach walk today, I paused as a young boy streaked across the boardwalk in front of me on his way to the sand. BEACH! he shouted. BEACH!), with the disfigurement and debility that await us.

These children are after something, with hooks and cries,
And my heart too small to bandage their terrible faults.

We can do nothing for one another as our weak fallible selves devolve toward the end; we are all too small-hearted and afraid.

The scene shifts, in the poem, from the beach to a man’s deathbed. The poet looks at the dead man:

This is what it is to be complete. It is horrible.
Is he wearing pyjamas or an evening suit

Under the glued sheet from which his powdery beak
Rises so whitely unbuffeted?

They propped his jaw with a book until it stiffened
And folded his hands, that were shaking: goodbye, goodbye.

Now the washed sheets fly in the sun,
The pillow cases are sweetening.

He’ll be unstuck from the bed just as the lovers she’s seen at the beach “unstick themselves” after “obscene,” hidden sex. Once he’s gone he’s gone and it’s just a matter of resweetening his pillow cases for the next case.

They are flying off into nothing: remember us.
The empty benches of memory look over stones,

Marble facades with blue veins, and jelly-glassfuls of daffodils.
It is so beautiful up here: it is a stopping place.

“Berck-Plage” is a beautiful stopping place. Only one doesn’t want to stop.

“Oh God, not another…

… fucking beautiful day,” as Alice de Janze memorably says in White Mischief, and it’s just like that here for the third day in Rehoboth Beach. Morning, afternoon, and night, all flawless. UD‘s sister the Morrissey fanatic is just back from Miami Beach (Morrissey concert) and reports it’s unpleasantly hot there.

Haha. As Gore Vidal memorably said, It’s not enough to succeed. Others must fail.

Because he refuses to waste a moment driving around until the weather changes, Mr UD has not yet gone food shopping, so Les UDs are surviving on pastries from Papillon and dinners out.

Quiet, Smoke-Free (You Can’t Smoke on the Beach; You Can’t Smoke on the Boardwalk; You Can’t Smoke Along Rehoboth Avenue), Shoulder Season Rehoboth Beach…

… is all that Les UDs had hoped. The short drive from ‘thesda featured spectacular skies over the Chesapeake Bay as we crossed the long bridge.

Gist of conversation during the drive:

UD: Isn’t the idea – merely as first principle – that we’re so grubby God has to come down and be tortured to death to redeem us from our grubbiness a pretty convoluted – not to mention pretty rank – idea?

Mr UD: Not when you take the correct approach to it.

So far the weather’s been perfect: Big sun, mild air. Cloudless skies over the ocean. The horizon line has a piercing clarity; container ships seem to skate on a knife-edge. Shoulder season means it’s late enough to be warm (even hot), but too early for the low-flying planes advertising cheap beer. The almond cookie smoothness of the beach is only slightly undone by beach-goers, among whom we have already noticed some doppelgängers. One couple in particular… We walked by them as they unloaded their car into our building on arrival. They drove a Prius, looked about our age, had OBAMA stickers on their car (we don’t do stickers, but we do Obama) … Later, we saw them on the beach looking very Soltanesque — each reading what looked like a not very beachy book…

On her morning walk UD was reminded of one of many beach scenarios she enjoys: Children are incredibly intense about their sand castles. They have to be, because they’re building with an eye toward the structure being gradually flooded as they finish, so their timing has to be pretty exact. Thus no shrieking and running to and fro, but trancelike mindfulness upon the passage of all things…

Well, and UD likes very much the way beaches – especially beaches in the June sun – subdue us, channel us, create “the miniature gaiety of seasides.”

More Dogs from Sunday’s Rehoboth Beach Dog Parade

Click on the images
for a good view.




[Courtesy UD‘s sister.]

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